June 11
Leave Gaspe (Forillon National Park area) to Perce, Quebec
We stopped at the info centre (very few are open this time of year) at Mont-Joli and I just loved this poster. It is so indicative of the area.
Arriving on Hwy 132, close to Perce
A typical house, along the beach (but, with a view of the famous rock, with a hole in it)
Coming down the hill into the town of Perce, Quebec.
CAMPING BAIE-DE-PERCE
Above us in the hillside, is a viewing platform with a glass bottomed platform. And off to the right is a Zipline. This is all closed until the July long weekend. (Darn! LOL).
The campground is right downtown in there small picturesque town of Perce. We are the only campers in the entire campground the first night (our stay is three nights and there were only four other campers during on the last two nights).
Percé is a small, mainly tourist location, with a population of about 3,300. The location is known for it hole in the rock - one of the world's largest arches over water. It measures 1420 feet long and 300 wide. It is accessible during low tide from the mainland however, visitors are not allowed on top as cormorants and gulls take over.
Percé is a small, mainly tourist location, with a population of about 3,300. The location is known for it hole in the rock - one of the world's largest arches over water. It measures 1420 feet long and 300 wide. It is accessible during low tide from the mainland however, visitors are not allowed on top as cormorants and gulls take over.
In 1969
The arrival of a group of young independence supporters (people who wanted to separate Quebec from the rest of Canada) coming from Montreal to open La Maison du pecheur (restaurant) disturbed many people in Perce, especially tourism business owners. People were initially accustomed to this group of 'hippies' as they would do nothing but stroll, sing and sleep on the beach and other areas.
They now had a meeting place where they spoke about revolution and Quebec independence.
October 1970, crisis erupted: a cell of the FLQ (Front de liberation due Quebec), led by Jacques Lanctot kidnapped a British diplomate, James Richard Cross. Five days later, the Minister of Labour and Immigration Pierre Laporte was also kidnapped. He was found dead Oct 17 in the trunk of a car. The kidnappers, turned out to be four young people who had been at La Maison du pecheur in 1969. They were arrested and sentenced to spend lengthy sentences in prison.
The War Measures Act was passed and gave sweeping powers of arrest and internment to the police. The provisions took effect at 4 am and shortly thereafter, hundreds of suspected FLQ members were rounded-up.
A film, called The Fisherman's House depicts the true story of the brothers and their friend who arrived in Perce in the summer of 1969 to open the La Maison du pecheur (restaurant). Filming took place in Perce.
View from downtown, of the artist galley and historic town, with Perce rock on the right.
1842, the township of Perce was formed and has approximately 3,300 residents today. The french name for the rock is "le Rocher Perce" which means "pierced rock." This reddish-gold rock is limestone and shale. A 49 ft arch is cut through the rock by nature; it is one of the world's largest natural arches located in water and is a historical icon of Quebec.
Church of Saint Michel
Downtown (Chamber of Commerce)
Marc's first sighting of a "Moose."
Yes, parking is expensive during tourist season - which begins July 1st.
I went on a boat to Bonaventure Island to go see the most accessible Gannet Colony in North America. The boat ride is about twenty minutes or you can go on the 1 hour tour around the famous rock prior to docking on Bonaventure.
There is one tour company that sells tickets for the boat ride (but two separate kiosks). The first one we went into the man did not speak any English, a man came in to buy tickets and nicely translated for us. (We found out shortly after, by a woman who works in the business down the street, that the man selling the tickets does know English). Hmm.
Bought my ticket from the woman down the street who spoke fluent English. $35 for the boat. Then, you buy the pass for the park (Bonaventure Island is designated park land) at the Chamber of Commerce ($6.00).
A close up view of the 'eye of the needle' view of Perce Rock.
Lobster boats are a common sight in the bay this time of year. Efforts to conserve lobster fisheries has likely paid off, (according to the Montreal news).
May 20 a fisherman was interviewed and he stated the season is booming and the season will be closed first of July in the Gaspe region.
From the boat - our first glimpse of one of the Gannet colonies.
There are 218 different species of birds have been records as living or migrating to Bonaventure Island. The most common is the Northern Gannet. Somehow, people took alot of time to count: in 2011 there were apparently 51,700 pairs nesting on the island.
The birds that look somewhat like penguins, are common murres (or common guillemots).
Normally there are four hiking trails but for some reason only one was open this day. The main trail and the easiest. A 45 min walk through the woods to a nesting area of top of the cliff. It is unbelievable to be in such close proximity of nesting birds. They have a distinctive sound and with this many of course, it is loud.
It is incredible how the one of the partners will come back with or without nesting materials and 'find' their mate in the maze of birds.
Every now and then you see a spat between neighbours. Confrontations normally only take place between birds of the same sex.
They perform courtship displays, the most typical is the 'sky-pointing' with neck, head and bill held upwards. Pair-bonds last all the life and pairs return to the same nesting area each year.
They are amazing to watch as they feed at sea. They plunge-dive from about 10 to 30 meters. As they descend and just prior to hitting the water, their wings are bent parallel to the body - they look like an streamlined arrow.
Bonaventure Island was inhabited in the early 1790s and was a fishing port. The island became a bird sanctuary in 1919 (due to the 1916 Migratory Bird Convention between Canada and the United States) and the Province of Quebec acquired ownership of the entire island by act of expropriation in 1971 - the entire population (35 families) was evicted. There are still about four buildings on site and utilized by the Parks.
À la prochaine, QUEBEC
Across the bridge into Campbellton, New Brunswick (June 13)
Another hour to our destination - Bathurst
YOUGHALL CAMPGROUND, BATHURST
The campground has alot of history. The park was closed for fifteen years (in 2000) but still maintained by the original owner (from 1947). Ashley (granddaughter) and her husband, Josh took over the grounds and reopened the park in 2015. The barn was the original building on site and with over 200 sites it is full during the summer season, with seasonal campers and tourists.
We are on the upper level, surrounded by seasonal campers. The lower level is down by the pond, the party tent and party central.
And, mosquito central! The bugs have arrived - both mosquitoes and black flies.
And, then a third level has a pool and large open sites. We did a little ride down to the river (which you could not get down to and "Do Not Stop" for anything! Bugs!
Sad day
My golden Santa Cruz Bullet passed on! Have had that mountain bike for fifteen years or so. The shocks were done and no longer can you get parts.
So, off the the bike shop in Dieppe to look for an overall bike for touring around. Will not be nearly as cushy as my bullet, but, life goes on.
So - my new Giant Talon I. Mens X-small. (the picture above with the white bike is not it. The photo above with Marc shows my black and blue bike).
Youghall Beach is just 3 kms down the road. A gorgeous, sandy beach with boardwalk to protect the dune and you can walk along the beach for miles.
You do not need a license to fish off the beach at Youghall Beach. They are fishing for bass mainly. I overheard a few talking about the big catches - up to 38 lbs.
At the end of June, the City of Bathurst holds a Catch n Kayak tournament. Striped bass are the target. Only artificial lures and baits are allowed and single barbless hooks. Strict rules are in place as first place is $1,000. One of the rules is: Any participants caught using the same fish as a fellow participant will mean the disqualification of both entries.
This fisherman caught a flounder
Cormorants and this is the end of the post.... staying in Bathurst for ten days.
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